Making up one third of the three piece suit, the waistcoat has been a staple in men’s fashion for not decades, but centuries.
And such a classic yet ever-on-trend clothing piece deserves to be worn well, doesn’t it? So, allow us to teach you how to tie a waistcoat, whilst also filling you in on different types of waistcoats, their history, and key waistcoat styling tips.
Where Do Waistcoats Come From? A (Very) Brief Timeline
The Seventeenth Century
It all began with a well-known gent from the 17th century – King Charles II (not to be confused with the current reigning monarch, King Charles III). He ordered it to be a staple in Englishmen’s dressing.
Back in those days, a gent’s attire was incredibly elaborate. Fine silks, quality buttons, and perfect seams were the standard. Fancy embellishments cut from premium fabrics were just another way to prove your status in society (think of it like the equivalent to today’s designer gear). And waistcoats were always bright, showy, and highly-adorned, becoming the focal point of any ensemble.
The term 'waistcoat' comes from the short cutting of the material, in comparison to the longer cutting seen in formal coats. You might also know it as a jacket, undercoat, or vest, if you’re reading from across the pond.
The Nineteenth Century
Now shorter and tighter in style, the waistcoat was a foundational piece in every gentleman’s wardrobe. So much so that if you didn’t have one, it was a tell-tale sign you couldn’t afford one or simply “weren’t a man at all”.
The Twentieth Century
Having your braces on show isn’t very sophisticated, is it? You may as well flash your underwear – which is why many gents wore a waistcoat to maintain a modest look during this period.
Modern Day
If we lost you at braces, you might be more familiar with a trendy belt. Making braces a thing of the past, many gent’s then ditched the waistcoat in favour of more casual, laidback pieces.
But it was only a matter of time before they were once again a key element of any man’s wardrobe. And thanks to trendsetters like Tommy Shelby and Gareth Southgate, the waistcoat did indeed come (briefly) back in fashion.
Although now it’s most commonly worn as a three-piece suit, meaning knowing how to tie a waistcoat is critical to look as refined as possible. So, let’s get into the specifics.
What is a Waistcoat Cinch?
Also known as a buckle, a cinch is the magic fastening that (quite literally) pulls the look of the waistcoat together. But it’s not as straightforward as you might assume. Get the fastening wrong and you risk wearing a loose, ill-fitting jacket – that’s why learning the tricks to wearing waistcoats properly is essential.
How to Choose a Waistcoat with a Proper Cinch
We can bet this wasn’t even a thought in your mind, was it? But getting the cinch or the buckle just right is hard to achieve. A silky-soft fabric coupled with a slack buckle could result in a cinch with little to no friction, meaning it comes undone at the moment you least expect it. In other cases, the metal buckle is poorly-made, making it as useful as a chocolate teapot.
So, when buying a waistcoat, never overlook the quality and feel of its adjustments.
How to Tie a Waistcoat: Learning the Cinch Types
With only a small buckle to work with, tying a waistcoat should be pretty straightforward in theory. But there’s more to it than that – it all comes down to the individual design of the cinch (and, surprisingly, they don’t always have a buckle fastening).
The Single Cinch
This is probably the most common type of waistcoat cinch. And, you guessed it – there’s only one buckle to get in a tizzy over. Designed to sit firmly in the middle of the back, it shouldn’t slip or pull your coat to one side (the lop-sided look isn’t very sophisticated). If it does, it’s likely an indication of poor buckle quality and unfortunately, it’ll make the overall torso fit rather unflattering.
The Double Cinch
Again, it’s not hard to guess what the double cinch involves – two buckles, of course. In comparison to the single cinch, the buckle fastenings are shorter. And despite what you may think, this does actually make figuring out how to tie a waistcoat much, much simpler (though unfortunately, this design is less common).
Just don’t overcomplicate it – all you need to do is pull both pieces of material equal lengths at the same time to get the fit just right.
The Missing Cinch
We’re not fibbing, you can actually find waistcoats without a fastening at the rear, making this guide almost redundant. But even though these designs are supposed to be flattering enough without adjustments, we wouldn’t take their word for it. A waistcoat is designed to be snug and figure-hugging, not slack and boxy – choosing a design with a quality cinch to get a tailored fit is a much better option.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Tie Your Waistcoat
Step 1: Feed the Material Through the Buckle
First things first: you’ll definitely find this easier to do with your waistcoat laid flat (unless you have an extra pair of hands nearby). You can then make slight adjustments when it’s on.
Make sure both pieces of material are free of twists, and feed the material through the waistcoat buckle.
Step 2: Pull the Material Over the Metal Bar
Don’t worry, we’re likely making this much more complicated than it actually is. But you know what they say – practice makes perfect, so give it a go to really get the hang of it.
The next step is to pull the material you just fed through up and over the metal bar in the centre of the buckle. Then, feed it underneath the opposite side of the buckle and pull to tighten.
Step 3: Tie a Loose Knot
If the material of your cinch is particularly silky, adding a knot after the buckle is definitely the way to go (although you’ll definitely need an extra pair of hands).
All you need to do is loop the hanging material under, up, and over the piece of material that has the buckle attached, and take it through the “hole”. Gently pull to tighten (but don’t get too eager, or it might be tricky to undo). And that’s how to tie a waistcoat. Pretty simple, isn’t it?
Proper Waistcoat Fit Explained
A well-fitting waistcoat feels snug without restriction. It should frame your torso cleanly, neither gaping nor ballooning.
How Tight Should a Waistcoat Be?
Aim for a gentle pull at the front buttons so the fabric sits smooth. If you can insert more than one finger between your chest and the waistcoat, it’s too loose, and if the button holes are visibly stretched, it’s too tight.
Choosing the Right Waistcoat Length
The front hem should just cover your waistband – but no more. Too long and the waistcoat looks scruffy and ill-fitting, too short and it exposes your shirt when you move. The back is usually cut slightly higher, revealing a neat strip of shirting underneath.
Waistcoat Styling Tips for Men
Blend Textures
Mix traditional tweed waistcoats with denim jeans, moleskin trousers, or soft cotton shirts. Waistcoat styling doesn’t need to be boring, and it certainly doesn’t have to mask your personal style.
Nail the Proportions
Balance a snug waistcoat with slim jeans, roomy moleskin trousers, or slightly baggier shooting breeks.
Master Layering
Go for a crisp long-sleeved country shirt in complementing tones, and complete the look with a coordinating tweed jacket.
Add Accessories
Polished brogue shoes, a leather-strap watch, and a neat pocket square sharpen any outfit. For a traditional country twist, tuck a silk scarf beneath the waistcoat instead of a tie.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should you button all waistcoat buttons?
Never fasten the bottom button. Leaving it undone honours tradition and makes sitting far more comfortable.
How do I stop my waistcoat from rising?
Tighten the back strap until the rear panel sits flat against your shirt. This should prevent it from rising as you move.
Do you wear a belt with a waistcoat?
If your trousers require one, choose a slim, unobtrusive belt to prevent a ‘bulky’ look. Make sure the buckle doesn’t compete with the waistcoat’s front.
Can you wear a waistcoat casually?
Absolutely. A soft cotton or tweed waistcoat over a casual shirt works brilliantly with jeans or chinos for weekend outings.
Shop Waistcoats at Rydale
On the hunt for a new waistcoat? Styling is easy once you know how to tie a waistcoat, and we have a rather handsome range of men’s waistcoats at Rydale Clothing. Whether you want to keep it traditional with a checked tweed style or maintain a sleek, sophisticated aesthetic, we’ve got designs you’ll love for decades.